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Taking on a fixer upper?

The real deal on TV home-remodeling shows

By Stephanie Brick, posted on the Washington Post website Click here to see original post
Oct. 22, 2018 at 5:00 a.m. PDT

It is no surprise that reality television is rarely a representation of reality. How genuinely can anyone act (no pun intended) with a crew of cameras and microphones within arm’s reach? From scripted dialogue to behind-the-scenes staging, reality TV has seeped into nearly every corner of the market, and home remodeling is no exception.

Through the evolution of television, facts and fiction have generally known their respective places and, even if commingled, remained distinct from each other. Historically, there has been a differentiating line between programming intended for entertainment and programming intended for information.

Blurred lines

The difficulty is that the television industry has increasingly blurred the line between shows designed for entertainment and shows designed for education. Channels such as TLC (which once stood for “The Learning Channel”), HGTV, and even the Weather Channel and various news syndicates used to be defined by either their informative or educational programs. Now, however, they are more entertainment than information channels: You are more likely to tune in to facts or reality — when it is even presented — encased by opinions, drama, heavy editing or outright inaccurate data.

How we process information changes when that entertainment/education line is blurred — specifically, when programs designed for entertainment start introducing elements of their show as factual (or vice versa). It is a sneaky way to tip the scales: The entire show is easy to register as entertainment. So when little “facts” or context-specific truths work their way in, we have our guard down and accept them, often without even thinking about it. At times, almost insidiously, these programs start to rebalance themselves in our minds as mildly educational. This is the danger zone of misinformation.

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As a design professional, I believe one of my responsibilities is to help educate my clients. Despite living in the information age, we are surrounded by misinformation — and it can be nearly impossible to differentiate between the two without proper guidance. I see the source of this problem regularly when I tune in to shows about remodeling. So how can you tell what is true to the screen and what may be — directly or indirectly — propagating misinformation?

When it comes to home-remodeling reality TV, context is everything.

First consider the context of the home: Where is it located?

In some renovation shows, the city, state or even country (a surprising number that air in the United States are produced in Canada) are omitted. This becomes a honey pot for misinformation when numbers are then, inevitably, discussed.

Pricing for materials, labor and overall project budgets are not consistent across the United States, and any dollar amount needs context to have value. A $50,000 budget will yield wildly different results for a project in the heart of an East Coast city than it will in a Midwestern suburb. Always think to question where a project is located if numbers are discussed on a remodeling show.

It should also be noted that budget and total project costs may be influenced by the channel paying its regular and/or guest cast members each episode. (Do you think the designers, contractors and homeowners are only receiving 15 minutes of fame as compensation?)

Next, consider the episode in the context of its series.

Does it follow a formula? Confident designer makes lofty promises on seemingly low budget; problems are discovered during demolition; lofty scope must be dramatically reduced “to resolve discovered problem” or an egregious budget increase is required . . . every time.

To their credit, many of these shows do an excellent job communicating this true reality: Once construction has started, sometimes hidden or unknown existing conditions are revealed that warrant (or require) an unexpected increase in scope — which results in an increase in cost.

For instance, disintegrating pipelines or tangled DIY electrical work behind drywall usually cannot be detected — or accounted for — ahead of time. (As I tell my clients, we are still working on X-ray vision technology.)

However, this does not happen with every single household or project. So if you notice it happening — on a dramatic scale — during every episode of a reality TV show, recognize this consistently injected drama for what it is: a real representation of renovation risks? Perhaps. An excuse to get out of building that third-story addition that was never even close to realistic for the proposed, yet accepted, budget? Definitely.

Third, what is the context of the final results you are seeing?

Extravagant scopes on extremely short timelines are simply unrealistic. In theory, you could hire a huge workforce — but have you ever tried to find more than one really good craftsman or contractor to work on your home? How about a hundred? Even with the best of laborers, tight timelines rarely set anyone up for quality success.

In recent years, the grand unveiling of these finished houses have been quietly revealed as — sometimes — just grand shams, showcasing a meticulously composed staging. What you see is a beautiful, furnished, finished space, but just beyond the camera’s precisely calculated pan is an unfinished room and incomplete home.

Not knowing a project’s geographic context can lead to a misperception of budget and costs. Having only the pinhole sightline of a camera’s view can lead to unrealistic timeline expectations — even if just as an indirect, trickle-down effect.

We all know building a custom home from scratch in a week is unrealistic under normal circumstances. But does it not still, despite this acknowledgment, make three weeks for a bathroom remodel seem a little longer than it should be?

Whether or not your project is filmed by a crew and broadcast to the world, all architecture projects are governed by three factors: time, money and quality. If you are lucky, pick any two — speedy schedule, low cost, genuine craftsmanship — at the sacrifice of the third.

Many home-remodeling TV shows seem to deliver all three. These may be excellent sources for entertainment but should be recognized as poor sources of information.

Stephanie Brick is the owner of Stephanie Brick Design in Baltimore.

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Electric Floor Heating

Radiant floor heating systems heat a room by means of a system of pipes or wires that run beneath the surface flooring to gently radiate heat upward into the room. Such systems offer a good way to heat a room addition where it is difficult to extend existing HVAC ductwork, and they are especially effective on flooring surfaces that are naturally cool to the touch, such as stone, concrete, or ceramic tile. Radiant floors can also be a good choice in large, tall rooms since the heat source emanates at floor level, where the heating is most needed. And particularly in rooms where you walk with bare feet (the prime example is a bathroom), a radiant floor makes for unparalleled comfort.

Radiant floor systems come in several styles, but one of the most popular is the electric system, in which a wire mesh or loops of individual wires run across the floor beneath the surface, creating warmth by means of the natural resistance occurring as electricity flows through the metal wires.

Anatomy of an Electric Radiant Floor Heating System

The principle of radiant floor heating has been around for centuries. In ancient Rome, for example, many public buildings had a system of tunnels beneath stone floors that circulated air warmed by wood-burning fires. In the modern electric adaptation, thin heating cables installed under surface flooring—most commonly ceramic tile—heat the floor much the way an electric blanket works. Typically they are operated by their own 15- or 20-amp electrical circuit controlled by a wall thermostat. Often such systems are used to provide supplemental heat and are installed during remodeling projects.

Most electric radiant floors involve laying strips of electrical matting across the subfloor, linked together and connected to an electrical circuit and line-voltage thermostat, and secured in place by a covering of thin-set mortar. The surface floor covering is installed over the electrical matts. In these matt systems, you can cut pieces to size to fit irregular areas, although it is generally better to use full-sized mats. Ideally, the mats cover most of the floor, but it is also possible to confine the heating to areas where you usually walk. In other systems, individual wires are looped across the bathroom floor about 3 inches apart and secured by thin-set adhesive. For ceramic or stone tile floors, the electrical mats or wires are installed over the cement board underlayment, over which the ceramic tile is then laid.

Pros

Electric radiant heating systems buried within thermal masses (such as between cement board and ceramic tile) can retain heat for a long time, even after the power is turned off.

Electric radiant floor systems offer a discreet way of heating a floor. With the right temperature setting, it is difficult to even detect that the radiant heat is operating.

The systems can help reduce overall heating costs—your HVAC or space heaters do not have to operate as hard to heat up the room.

These systems are ideal for use under naturally cool surfaces, such as ceramic and stone tile or on concrete slabs.

Electric systems are easy to install during remodeling projects.

Radiant system, in general, are more cost-effective than other means of electric supplemental heating, such as space heaters.

Electrical systems are the most DIY-friendly of the radiant floor options.

Cons

These systems are difficult to install retroactively, as the floor covering must be removed. They are most practical during new construction or during major remodeling projects.

They are more effective at warming the floor surface “to the touch,” rather than heating the entire room (though it is possible to use radiant floor heating as your primary heat source).

For whole-home use, electrical systems are more expensive to operate than warm-water radiant heating.

Broken wires are trapped between flooring surfaces and are difficult to repair.

Radiant floor heating is less effective under carpeting, hardwood, or vinyl since heat can be trapped between the insulating surface layer and the subfloor.

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Costs

You can expect to pay at least $8 per square foot at a minimum for the materials for an electric radiant floor. For estimating purposes, $10 to $12 per square foot is a safe number to use for materials alone. On average, for professional installation plus materials, plan on spending about $16 per square foot.

While it depends on where you are located and the cost of electricity there, you can figure on operating costs of about $0.50 to $1.00 per day for an 8 x 10-foot bathroom, if the system runs 24 hours a day (regulated by thermostat). When operated 8 hours a day, costs run about $0.25 to $0.35 per day for the same 8 x 10-foot bathroom.

Alternate Forms of Radiant Floor Heating

Less common but also available is the hydronic (hot water) radiant floor system. In hydronic systems, tubes of water warmed by a central boiler or hot water heater circulate beneath the floor. Hydronic radiant floor systems are more typically used in new construction for creation of whole-house heating systems. Installation costs are considerably higher than for other central heating systems, but hydronic radiant systems are extremely efficient and offer much lower ongoing operating costs—about one-third that of forced air systems.

Written by Lee Wallender; found on thespruce.com website

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12 Hidden Renovation Costs That Can Sink Your Budget

Surprises happen. Shelling out cash on unexpected renovation costs isn’t completely avoidable — but there are plenty of hidden renovation costs you can prepare for.

Here are some of the surprising things that can set your wallet on fire during your next big project.

#1 Extra Muscle: $500

Even if you’re just clearing out the renovation space by moving boxes downstairs, you still might find yourself in need of a few strong hands.

“For the longest time, we thought we could clear out the space ourselves,” says Summer Sterling, who renovated her home’s entire top floor, including gutting the kitchen, updating two bathrooms, and vaulting a ceiling. She and her husband lived in the basement during the remodel. “Then we realized we have this gigantic furniture.” The Sterlings moved as much as they could beforehand, but the movers still cost about $500.

#2 Anxious Pups: $125 Per Week

Some pets have nerves of steel. Others cower at any unexpected noise or strangers. And construction zones are full of noisy strangers: dropping wrenches, hammering, or stomping through your home in metal-toed boots.

Monitor your dog to see how he handles the stress. If the answer is “not well,” prepare for a brief boarding — although you might find a mid-day dog walker or a short stay with Nana is soothing enough (and far less expensive).

Sterling and her husband adopted a new dog shortly before the remodel. “It was tough on our little guy,” she says. “He likes to sleep all the time.”

Their two pups doubled their time in doggie daycare — stressful for the dogs and the budget. But planning your work during your sitter’s down season can save you some cash.

#3 Dinners Out: $80 Per Week

Cooking without a kitchen challenges the best chefs — there’s a reason it’s a stalwart Top Chef challenge. Even if your kitchen remains intact during the reno, putting together a meal in a home filled with dust is no fun at all.

Sterling and her husband ate out or ordered take-out “at least three or four times a week,” she says.

Instead of single-handedly funding your favorite restaurant’s expansion, she recommends storing pre-prepped, microwaveable meals in a chest freezer. Or setting up a makeshift kitchen.

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#4 Dumpster Fees: $400

Construction junk has to go somewhere. If you’re DIYing the remodel, dumpster fees might come as a surprise.

Expect to spend about $400 on your trash-mobile, but contractors can provide localized, ballpark dumpster estimates.

Once it’s in your driveway, save some extra cash by using the dumpster to ditch unwanted stuff accumulating around your house. Tired of those nasty old blinds? Say adieu, without paying extra disposal fees. Just leave room for the construction junk.

#5 Hotel Stays: $500

You’re determined to live at home during the reno, but if a contractor accidentally smashes through your bedroom wall or the noise gets too unbearable, you might find yourself packing up for a short stay in a nearby hotel.

You don’t need to book your staycation beforehand, but budgeting enough cash for a few days’ away will make the decision to abandon ship a bit less stressful. Or hole up with some friends — just make sure to bring wine and cover dinner as payment.

#6 Childcare: $175 Per Week

Checking your calendar, you realize demo day coincides with school inservice. You can’t have the adorable little rascals stomping through the dust — so off to the sitters they go. Great. Another $100 down the drain.

Keep a close eye on the calendar and pre-arrange playdates for their days off to keep your wallet in check. Or bring over Aunt Margie to keep the kids corralled (and entertained) in a spare bedroom.

#7 Labor Costs: $50 Per Hour

Delays, schedule changes, and unexpected surprises don’t just add time to the renovation — they mean paying more to the workers.

“Our labor costs wound up being much higher,” says Janet Heller, whose sink broke during a bathroom renovation — requiring multiple trips and two times the work from contractors and laborers.

Know each contractor’s hourly cost so when disaster strikes, you can budget appropriately.

#8 Professional Cleaning: $150

Your new kitchen features sparkling, brand-new marble and stunning oak cabinetry — but you can’t ignore the fine layer of sawdust covering everything.

“Construction dust is everywhere,” Sterling says. Allocate a few days for a top-to-bottom clean. Scrubbing everything yourself can save you some much-needed cash.

But if the mess is too daunting, consider hiring a service as a post-renovation treat. Even if they’re just handling the hard-to-reach spots, a little help will be more than welcome. Now all you have to do is go home, kick back, and heat up your very last frozen dinner.

#9 Office Space: $195 Per Month

Telecommuters have their own renovation challenges. How can you take a phone call with clients when a drill is whirring overhead?

“I work from home, but am unable to function with so much construction noise above me,” Sterling says. “There’s no privacy whatsoever.” But privacy doesn’t come cheap: A “flexible desk” at a co-working space can cost $195 per month — and more if you need a closed door.

Sterling leased a temporary office twice per week during the renovation and lowered costs by working out of coffee shops or a library as often as possible.

#10 Higher Utility Bills: 15%-20% Extra

Doors opening. Fans whirring. So many power tools. Is there anything in construction that doesn’t suck up energy?

“We’re living in a much smaller space, but the efficiency is terrible,” says Sterling, who spent about 15% to 20% more on electricity during the renovation. “The bloody contractors leave the windows open all the time.”

Don’t feel bad if you’re a bit of a nag. Unless the breeze is necessary (drying paint and new hardwood floors require ventilation), pop upstairs every evening to close the windows.

#11 Lawn Landscaping: $1,500

Did they really need to put their equipment on your beautiful Kentucky bluegrass? For some reason, renovating the interior can mean your lawn takes a beating that only a professional landscaper can repair.

Ask contractors beforehand if they plan on using your yard for staging, and place down tarps to protect the foliage. Or find alternative spots, like the attached garage or gravel driveway.

#12 Permits: $1,000

Before the first sledgehammer swings, sit down with your contractor (or city building department) for a detailed discussion of exactly what permits you need.

“Usually a contractor will include plans and permits,” says Charles Rinek, owner of custom home building company Rinek, Inc.

But make sure you know early on if they don’t, otherwise you’re in for a surprise. Sterling says she paid more than $1,800 in permit fees — causing major sticker shock, if you’re not expecting the bill.

Written by Jamie Wiebe, found on houselogic.com website

Hi from Emmett and Kim! We are a husband and wife real estate team here in Chico, CA with Century 21 Select Real Estate, Inc. If you have any questions about buying or selling a home please do not hesitate to reach out to us! We hope you stick around and explore our website. There is a lot of great info and you can search for homes for sale as well!