You Must Master This When House Hunting

Excerpt from: Take Note! This Is the One Thing You Must Master When House Hunting


By Jamie Wiebe | Sep 27, 2018 From the Realtor.com website

Average home buyers look at 10 houses before they find The One. And unless you’ve lucked out with a photographic memory, remembering the details of all those homes can prove challenging. Wait, which one had that weird bathroom? What was the address of that awesome house near the lakeshore?

If only you’d written it down.

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It might not be the most exciting skill to learn, but good note-taking can keep you organized and dramatically simplify your home search. Yes, you already know how to write things down. But are you writing down the right things?

Jot down your impressions of size


You might be wowed by the size of the place when you walk inside, but you’re omitting crucial information if you’re not comparing that impression with the actual dimensions. Most homes come with a spec sheet, and if you’re surprised to discover the cavernous living room is just 9 feet by 9 feet—smaller than your bedroom at home—then make a note. Clever staging might be tricking your eyes, and getting the space to feel that enormous with your own furniture might be a challenge.

“Looks can be deceiving, and many agents have the means to perfectly stage a property,” says Vincent Averaimo, who works in real estate law. “Sometimes that means it looks bigger than it really is.”

Record your gut feeling


When you step into the home, what do you feel? After a long day spent driving to a dozen different homes, you’re likely to forget that feeling.

So make sure to write it down. Did you feel relaxed and comfortable? Slightly ill at ease? Did an intangible thrill race along your spine?

“When you have found the home for you, there’s a special feeling that you get,” Roberson says.

While you’re at it, dig into the specifics of why you got that special “yes!” feeling. Was it the bay window in the master bedroom? The 500-bottle wine cellar you’re already dreaming of filling up?

“Note something you really love about the home or something that really bugs you,” says Maria Daou, a real estate broker in New York City. “If you don’t make these notes in the moment, when you are in the space, you forget what it is and all the houses start blending together.”

Give the home a numerical rating


Real estate agent Dale Schaechterle recommends establishing three “have to haves,” which must be included in your final home. Then, each time you visit a house, rate each of these must-haves from 1 to 10, with 10 being “exceptional” or even “better than desired.”

For instance, if you’re insistent on a three-bedroom home, then a home with more than three beds might get a 10, and a three-bedroom home gets an 8.

At the end, tally it all up to see which home has the highest score on the things that matter most to you.

“A perfect score is not the goal,” Schaechterle says. You’re looking for something with the best balance of everything you want that gives you “permission” to stop looking and write an offer.

Take pictures—of everything


Any good seller’s agent will stuff the listing chock-full of pictures—but that doesn’t mean you should put your camera away during the showing.

In fact, you should take photos of anything that jumps out at you—good or bad, recommends real estate broker Brenda Di Bari.

Did you absolutely adore the dual-faucet sink in the kitchen? Or were you uncertain about the strange laundry room setup? Flipping through your camera roll can help you recall the details that might not be pictured in the listing photos.

And there’s another darn good reason to take lots of pictures: Sometimes listing photos lie. A deck might look pristine on camera, but up close the boards are splitting and—oh, heavens—are those carpenter ants? Or perhaps a room that looked enormous feels more like a coffin in real life.

“Maybe there are areas of damage or concern that you want to consider before making an offer,” Di Bari says. A photo will help you remember.

Write down the renovations you’ll want (and look up their cost later)


Few houses are perfect. Jot down any obvious changes you’ll want to make—and anything that might impede a home improvement project. (Is that wall clearly structural?)

“Noting if [renovation] is even an option is really important,” Daou says.

Once you’ve figured out which renovations your potential home might need, suss out how much they’ll cost. Add that to any other must-change items, like a coat of paint, replacement gutters, or even furniture needed to outfit a bigger home.

“It almost always costs more than you think,” Di Bari says.

And what good is a dream home if you can’t afford to make it shine?

Note from the Jacobi Team


We hope you stick around and explore our website! On our site you can search for homes for sale in Chico and the surrounding area. You can also download our free Home Buyer’s Guide which is chock FULL of great info! Reach out to us if you have any questions! Thanks -Kim and Emmett

7 Small Tasks for January Decluttering and Organizing

If decluttering and organizing is on your New Year’s resolutions list, you might start visualizing your goal by saving photos of your favorite organized spaces to a Houzz ideabook. But at some point, you’ve got to go from dreaming to taking action. As a professional organizer, I recommend that you begin with tasks that take only an hour or two to complete.

Tackling smaller areas of your home can give you a sense of accomplishment that motivates you to continue organizing. Here are seven often-neglected areas that can be great places to start. Depending on the time you have, you may be able to get through several of these tasks this month.

1. Organize the Linen Closet

Linen closets can easily become disorganized, cluttered and overstuffed. Sometimes it may even become hard to close the door. The new year is a great time for a fresh start in this area.

Towels

Towels should be washed once or twice a week to maintain freshness and eliminate bacteria. I suggest keeping two to three bath towels per household member so you have a backup on wash day. If you have more towels than you truly need, consider getting rid of any that are faded, stained or frayed. A local animal shelter will probably be happy to receive them.

Sheets

Two sets of sheets per bed should generally be sufficient. If you use a duvet cover without a top sheet, there’s no reason to hang on to unused top sheets. Donate those that are in good shape.

Blankets

I recommend not letting the linen closet become a catchall for blankets you never use. Small fleece blankets commonly given as promotional items might be stashed and never looked at again. Consider parting with these and any other unused quilts, throws or comforters.

Once you’ve pared down your supply, I suggest labeling shelves to identify which linens belong where. You might use categories such as “master bedroom sheets,” “twin bed sheets” and “guest room sheets.” Alternatively, if your budget allows, you might consider purchasing containers to store bed and bath linens. Label your containers and store sets together: A queen-size top sheet, fitted sheet and matching pillowcases should go in the same bin to make it easy to find the whole set.

2. Clean Out the Coat Closet

A coat closet is valuable real estate that not everyone has the good fortune to possess. However, it can become a disorganized mess if not attended to periodically. Now might be a good time for a quick purging and organizing session.

When working with clients, I recommend they pull everything out of the closet and place coats, jackets and accessories on a clean table or other work surface. My clients are often surprised by how much a small space can hold!

Outerwear

Since this category of clothing tends not to be sentimental, it’s often easy to donate items you no longer use. If you happen to be saving outgrown jackets for a younger sibling, consider storing them away from this prime spot. Likewise, consider storing seasonal items like ski jackets with ski equipment.
You might find jackets and coats that were mistakenly left at your home after a party. In the future, return them in a timely fashion so they won’t continue to crowd your coat closet.

Accessories

Gloves, hats and scarves can usually be sorted quickly. Donate those you no longer use. Toss old gloves or mittens that are missing their mate. It might make sense to store rarely worn sentimental clothing such as logo hats and scarves — perhaps from your college, vacation or favorite sports team — in another part of the house.

Shoes

These have a way of piling up. Toss overly worn shoes and those without a mate. Consider donating outgrown children’s shoes that are still in good shape. It might be best to store athletic shoes and cleats in the garage or other storage area so they don’t give your closet an unpleasant odor. I recommend storing special-occasion shoes on the top shelf of your bedroom closet.

Random items

Now is the time to return random items stashed in the coat closet to their proper homes. Before entertaining, some of my clients throw clutter from counters and tabletops into boxes that they stash in the back of the coat closet. If you have such boxes, commit to sorting through them. You may discover a lost treasure buried there.

When returning coats and jackets to the closet, you might organize them by category (all raincoats together, for instance). Another option is to group coats and jackets according to their owner. You might want to invest in an over-the-door organizer to hold accessories. These can be great for storing gloves, hats and scarves.

Also consider giving yourself a deadline to get any donations out of the house so they don’t end up back in the closet.

3. Declutter Under the Kitchen Sink

Since the area under the kitchen sink is small, it can usually be transformed in less than an hour. Start by pulling out all the contents and placing it on a counter or table. Then wipe the interior of the cabinet clean with warm, soapy water.

Next address your undersink products. Consider consolidating duplicates. For example, two half-used containers of dishwasher pods might be consolidated into one. (Take care not to mix products, as cleaning agents containing ammonia and bleach create toxic fumes if combined.)

Toss any products that have dried out or are no longer needed. People sometimes collect free samples of dishwasher soap or other cleaning products and then never use them. Consider getting rid of such samples or at least using them in the coming weeks so you don’t end up storing them indefinitely.

Wipe off remaining products with warm, soapy water. I suggest corralling supplies in plastic storage caddies to help the space under the sink stay neat. If you don’t want to purchase new caddies, you may be able to repurpose containers you already own.

Group similar products: dishwashing products in a single container, cleaning supplies in another. If you need more storage, you might consider purchasing an organizer that attaches to the cabinet door.

4. Purge the Freezer

Many people clean out their refrigerator on a regular basis yet don’t address the freezer.

Begin by removing all of the contents. Wipe down the freezer with warm, soapy water.

Consider tossing foods that have been in the freezer for many months. It’s safe to freeze food indefinitely at 0° F but, according to the FDA, the food’s quality decreases the longer it’s frozen. Tenderness, flavor, aroma, juiciness and color can all be affected. The quality of ground beef declines in three to four months, for example, while chicken pieces will last for nine months, according to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. The quality of soups and stews starts to degrade in two to three months.

If you don’t want to throw food away, you might instead eat it now before the quality deteriorates further. Also pitch foods that haven’t been properly wrapped and have freezer burn or are covered in ice crystals.

5. Clean Out the Kitchen Junk Drawer

Often my clients have one or more junk drawers in the kitchen. These might contain pens, receipts, hair ties, screwdrivers, flashlights, power cords, earbuds, lip balm, old sunglasses, packing tape, old cell phones and a multitude of other random items. It’s often difficult to find anything in them because they’re so messy.

I suggest limiting your kitchen junk to just one drawer, and try to limit its contents to things you use every day.

To organize this area, I recommend first removing everything from the drawer. Toss anything broken or unusable, such as dried-out pens. Toss or file old receipts. Consider donating unused items that still have life in them, such as old sunglasses. Remove the SIM cards from old cellphones and recycle the phones at a local electronic-waste-disposal site.

Then return the items you want to keep — but not in the junk drawer — to their proper homes: tools to the toolbox, hair ties to the bathroom drawer.

For the items that will remain in the junk drawer, consider purchasing organizers or repurposing small containers to keep the drawer from becoming chaotic. Use these containers to store everyday items such as earbuds, phone chargers, pens, tape and scissors.

Since a junk drawer has the tendency to become a dumping ground, spend a few minutes each month removing things that don’t belong there and returning them to their proper homes.

6. Refold the Contents of your Sock and Underwear Drawer

Underwear and sock drawers can easily become a tangled web. The trick to corralling socks and lingerie is to break a large drawer into smaller sections and group similar items within each.

I recommend purchasing inexpensive drawer organizers. Collapsable cloth boxes or plastic containers are a good choice, or you can repurpose shoe or photo boxes. Spring-loaded plastic drawer dividers are another option.

To begin the organizing process, I recommend removing the contents of the drawer. Toss socks without a mate as well as anything else that has reached the end of its functional life.

I have a large drawer, so I divided it into five sections: bras, underwear, athletic socks, dress socks and tights. The boxes I purchased happen to fit perfectly in my drawer. If you can’t find a good fit for yours, consider spring-loaded dividers, which can be adjusted to fit most drawers.

You can fold bras and arrange them vertically within one box so that you can easily find the one you want. I recommend folding underwear neatly in another box and tights in a third. For socks, organizer Marie Kondo recommends folding them and storing vertically. If this doesn’t work for you, opt for the old-fashioned method of rolling each pair in a ball. Consider storing athletic socks in a separate container from dress socks.

I’ve found that my underwear and sock drawer has stayed neat and organized since I purchased drawer organizers. It’s easy to maintain and I don’t have to spend time each month tidying it.

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7. Organize Your Bathroom Drawer

Like any drawer that holds small items, the bathroom drawer can quickly become a jumbled mess without the use of drawer organizers. Fortunately, these are available in many shapes and sizes. Some people like individual clear plastic containers that fit products such as toothpaste, dental floss and razors.

I recommend that you measure your bathroom drawer before you purchase to ensure the correct fit. If you buy different sizes, they fit like a puzzle in the drawer, so be careful when measuring. It may be more economical to purchase one large organizer that’s divided into sections.

For this room, I do recommend purchasing organizers rather than repurposing existing containers. Bathroom drawers are shallow, and organizers also need to be able to stand up to moisture, so if you intend to repurpose containers, keep this in mind.

As with the previous tasks, begin by emptying and wiping out the drawer. Toss anything that’s dried out or unusable. Make room in your organizers for daily items like toothpaste, floss, razors, moisturizer and sunscreen. Create a space for cosmetics you use often. If you own a lot of makeup, you may want to store the less frequently used items in a container under the sink.

Once you’ve completed these seven tasks, give yourself a small reward. If you’re motivated to continue decluttering your home, you might even consider seven slightly larger tasks to focus on next month.

Written by Jeanne Taylor, found on the Houzz.com website

Hi from Emmett and Kim! We are a husband and wife real estate team here in Chico, CA with Century 21 Select Real Estate. We hope you stick around and check out our website! You can search for homes for sale in Chico or towns around it. You can get answers to your questions about buying a home or selling a home. You can even sign up to have an online consultation with Kim or Emmett about buying a house! Call us if you just want to talk real estate.

Electric Floor Heating

Radiant floor heating systems heat a room by means of a system of pipes or wires that run beneath the surface flooring to gently radiate heat upward into the room. Such systems offer a good way to heat a room addition where it is difficult to extend existing HVAC ductwork, and they are especially effective on flooring surfaces that are naturally cool to the touch, such as stone, concrete, or ceramic tile. Radiant floors can also be a good choice in large, tall rooms since the heat source emanates at floor level, where the heating is most needed. And particularly in rooms where you walk with bare feet (the prime example is a bathroom), a radiant floor makes for unparalleled comfort.

Radiant floor systems come in several styles, but one of the most popular is the electric system, in which a wire mesh or loops of individual wires run across the floor beneath the surface, creating warmth by means of the natural resistance occurring as electricity flows through the metal wires.

Anatomy of an Electric Radiant Floor Heating System


The principle of radiant floor heating has been around for centuries. In ancient Rome, for example, many public buildings had a system of tunnels beneath stone floors that circulated air warmed by wood-burning fires. In the modern electric adaptation, thin heating cables installed under surface flooring—most commonly ceramic tile—heat the floor much the way an electric blanket works. Typically they are operated by their own 15- or 20-amp electrical circuit controlled by a wall thermostat. Often such systems are used to provide supplemental heat and are installed during remodeling projects.

Most electric radiant floors involve laying strips of electrical matting across the subfloor, linked together and connected to an electrical circuit and line-voltage thermostat, and secured in place by a covering of thin-set mortar. The surface floor covering is installed over the electrical matts. In these matt systems, you can cut pieces to size to fit irregular areas, although it is generally better to use full-sized mats. Ideally, the mats cover most of the floor, but it is also possible to confine the heating to areas where you usually walk. In other systems, individual wires are looped across the bathroom floor about 3 inches apart and secured by thin-set adhesive. For ceramic or stone tile floors, the electrical mats or wires are installed over the cement board underlayment, over which the ceramic tile is then laid.

Pros


Electric radiant heating systems buried within thermal masses (such as between cement board and ceramic tile) can retain heat for a long time, even after the power is turned off.

Electric radiant floor systems offer a discreet way of heating a floor. With the right temperature setting, it is difficult to even detect that the radiant heat is operating.

The systems can help reduce overall heating costs—your HVAC or space heaters do not have to operate as hard to heat up the room.

These systems are ideal for use under naturally cool surfaces, such as ceramic and stone tile or on concrete slabs.

Electric systems are easy to install during remodeling projects.

Radiant system, in general, are more cost-effective than other means of electric supplemental heating, such as space heaters.

Electrical systems are the most DIY-friendly of the radiant floor options.

Cons


These systems are difficult to install retroactively, as the floor covering must be removed. They are most practical during new construction or during major remodeling projects.

They are more effective at warming the floor surface “to the touch,” rather than heating the entire room (though it is possible to use radiant floor heating as your primary heat source).

For whole-home use, electrical systems are more expensive to operate than warm-water radiant heating.

Broken wires are trapped between flooring surfaces and are difficult to repair.

Radiant floor heating is less effective under carpeting, hardwood, or vinyl since heat can be trapped between the insulating surface layer and the subfloor.

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Costs


You can expect to pay at least $8 per square foot at a minimum for the materials for an electric radiant floor. For estimating purposes, $10 to $12 per square foot is a safe number to use for materials alone. On average, for professional installation plus materials, plan on spending about $16 per square foot.

While it depends on where you are located and the cost of electricity there, you can figure on operating costs of about $0.50 to $1.00 per day for an 8 x 10-foot bathroom, if the system runs 24 hours a day (regulated by thermostat). When operated 8 hours a day, costs run about $0.25 to $0.35 per day for the same 8 x 10-foot bathroom.

Alternate Forms of Radiant Floor Heating


Less common but also available is the hydronic (hot water) radiant floor system. In hydronic systems, tubes of water warmed by a central boiler or hot water heater circulate beneath the floor. Hydronic radiant floor systems are more typically used in new construction for creation of whole-house heating systems. Installation costs are considerably higher than for other central heating systems, but hydronic radiant systems are extremely efficient and offer much lower ongoing operating costs—about one-third that of forced air systems.

Written by Lee Wallender; found on thespruce.com website

Hi from Emmett and Kim! We are a husband and wife real estate team here in Chico, CA with Century 21 Select Real Estate. If you have any questions about buying or selling a home, or any other home related questions, please reach out to us! We hope you stick around and check out our website. You can search homes for sale, get local market reports, and more!

What Types of Home Inspections Can a Buyer Do?

There are lots of types of home inspections you can do when you are buying a house. In California, these inspections are generally done during escrow, and who pays for them is negotiable. No inspections are required when buying a home, unless you are getting a VA loan, then you will be required to get a pest inspection and a septic inspection, if applicable, and a well inspection, if applicable.

General Home Inspections

General home inspectors look for signs of damage and defects. They’ll often refer buyers to a specialist to investigate further and fully diagnose the problem when and if they spot something significant, or something that lies outside their scope of expertise.

A general home inspector might see evidence of wood damage and suggest that you call in a pest expert to find out what caused it. These specialists can provide you with different repair options and give you a sense of what the bill might be to remedy the situation.

Tip:

The costs of inspections are generally left to the buyer unless they’re required by an appraiser in order to get a loan.

Chimney Inspections

Some older chimneys don’t have flue liners, or the interior brickwork might be crumbling. A chimney inspector will detect these problems and can also make sure smoke is discharged properly and that the cap is in good repair. Cost: a mere $100 to $300 as of 2020.1

Electrical Inspections

A general home inspector might tell you that the electrical box is so old that it no longer complies with city code. An electrician can tell you the best brands for replacement and how much it will cost, among other disclosures.

Tip:

Be sure to check out the electrical panel and Google the model number to make sure it hasn’t been recalled.

Lead-Based Paint

The federal government banned the use of lead-based paint in 1978, but older homes-and even some built after 1978-can still contain it.2 You have a right to have the home tested for lead-based paint and to hire a certified lead abatement contractor to remove it.3

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Heating and Air Conditioning

A home inspector might measure the differential temperature reading from an air conditioner or a furnace as low, and recommend that the unit be inspected by an HVAC specialist to find out why. Most furnaces must be taken apart to determine the source of the malfunction.

Tip:

An HVAC specialist can tell you how much it will cost to fix the unit, or whether it needs to be replaced entirely.

Wood Damage

You’ll find wood-destroying critters in just about any part of the country, but they particularly thrive in warm climates. A pest inspection discloses not only the presence the likes of termites or powder post beetles, but it also identifies non-pest issues like dry rot. This type of inspection can cost as little as $50 or so as of 2020.4

Foundation Inspections

A home inspector can tell you if your home was built on a slab or a raised foundation and note suspicious cracks, but a foundation engineer can tell you if the home is sliding or the foundation is faulty. This type of inspection can run $300 to $1000 as of 2020.5

Pool and Spa Inspections

Pool and spa experts can offer an estimated life expectancy of the unit based on crucial key components such as the heater or spa blower. These specialists also check for leaks.

Tip:

Sometimes pools can be covered under home warranties for an additional cost.

Roof Inspections

Get your own roof certification on an older roof, even if the appraiser requires it and the seller won’t pay for it. Make sure the company is reputable and likely to be in business later if you should have to make a claim.

Sewer or Septic System

Get a sewer or septic tank inspection. Some older homes might not be connected to a sewer system. Modern inspection technology inserts a digital camera into the sewer line and pushes it through to the main line. Many sewer inspectors will even make movies of the process for you.

Soil Stability

Testing the soil is important if you’re buying a home on the side of a hill because you don’t want the home or any part of the hill sliding away during a severe rainstorm. Some areas also are prone to soil contamination.

Landscaping Inspections

The best way to determine if the trees and bushes on the property are healthy is to hire an arborist to inspect them.

Water Systems and Plumbing

A plumber can tell you if galvanized plumbing needs to be replaced. Some galvanized pipes are so clogged that you can barely fit the lead of a pencil through them.

Inspect the construction and find out the depth of the water table, including water sanitation, if the property has a well. This type of inspection will run about $165 as of 2020.6

Gases and Chemicals

A mitigation contractor can test for radon or methane gas and recommend ways to remove it. Qualified formaldehyde inspectors can also determine the presence of unacceptable levels of this colorless and flammable chemical, which is often used in building products. It’s been known to cause cancer in rats.

Tip:

A radon check can set you back as little as $10, if you purchase a home test kit.7

Asbestos Inspections


Contrary to popular belief, general home inspections don’t include tests for asbestos. The only way to tell if a material actually contains asbestos is to have it tested by taking a sample to a lab.

Tip:

Don’t rely on do-it-yourself home tests.

Mold Inspections

Mold is typical in residences in damp, humid climates, and it can trigger health problems even in healthy individuals. An inspector can test for its presence and determine what type of mold, if any, is present.

Document Inspections

Not all inspections are physical. Researching records can turn up significant information, too:

Square footage:


You might want to verify the square footage of your home because public records sometimes contain mistakes. Buyers or their lenders can hire an appraiser to provide this measurement.

Easements and encroachments:


Your owner’s title policy will disclose easements, but ask the title company to send you the actual easement documents from public records, too. You can also hire a surveyor to inspect and prepare an improvement location certificate (ILC), which will show any encroachments.

Lot size and boundaries:


A preliminary search for a title policy will give you a plat map, showing the boundaries and the size of the lot. Consider hiring a surveyor if you want this information verified. Don’t rely on fences to determine boundaries, but be warned. This type of survey can cost as much as $675 and as low as $346 as of 2020.

Permits and zoning:


Go to your city planning department and ask to see the permits on the home. Sometimes people remodel without permits. The zoning department can also tell you if running a home-based business is legal where the home is located.

If You’re Buying in an Area Prone to Disasters

You might want to add one more item to your inspection checklist if you’re buying in an area that has a history of severe weather events, such as flooding, hurricanes, or tornadoes. A disaster inspection can tell you if the property suffered any resulting damage and how well it’s likely to stand up to another such event.

BY ELIZABETH WEINTRAUB
Updated November 13, 2020
At the time of writing, Elizabeth Weintraub, CalBRE #00697006, is a Broker-Associate at Lyon Real Estate in Sacramento, California.

About Us

What does a former Alaskan fisherman and a former music teacher have in common? Real Estate! Emmett and Kim teamed up in 2015 to form The Jacobi Team. Together they bring what one person alone could never do: the best qualities of two people, combined with leveraged time and focus, creating high quality, high success representation for buyers and sellers of real estate. Real Estate is not an easy career, so why do it? “Because we care about people and we love the uniqueness every person, and every property brings. We truly feel joy and satisfaction when we help someone.” -E and K

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